Ted G. writes: I recently acquired a “Connecticut” State Series Quarter which has had the head double struck and the heads are 180 degrees out of phase. Could you estimate the value? Would it be worth keeping (anticipate growing value) or selling? Thank you.
At first I thought this was a “brockage” error where one coin gets stuck to a die and impresses its image into the next blank. There is too much damage to the coin and it is suspiciously well lined up.
My opinion:
Place coins facing each other between wood blocks. Whack with hammer until done. Viola! One “Mint” error.
There is a great deal of interest in State quarters, especially errors. It has reached hysterical levels. Normal business strikes that should be in circulation are being slabbed and sold for breathtaking prices. Hey guys, this is pocket change!
State quarter errors are bringing 10 to 20 times what scarcer earlier same type errors are bringing. Fake errors are easy to sell as the bulk of collectors for State quarters are “newbies” and don’t know the difference, thus the run on blocks of wood and hammers. I wouldn’t want to be the guy without the chair when the music stops.
The mint makes great proof and mint sets that you can buy at reasonable prices to keep your State quarter collection up to date. They are in gem condition. You can break those out and slab them if you wish. The grading services are smiling like Cheshire cats. It is their dream come true. The public is willing to slab their change at $15-$30 a pop. It’s better than bottled water.
Brian asks: How much does it cost the mint to produce the cent, nickel, dime, quarter, half dollar, and dollar? Also, where can I get detailed information on the coining process? The U.S Mint website doesn’t go into detail at all. Another question, does the mint make a new master hub for each coin every year? If not, then how do they change the year on the coin? One more question, where can I find the mintage figures for all types of U.S. coins?
Jim B. writes: In the Red Book, it says the 1841-O $5 Gold Piece is not known an any collections, while the Black book says two specimens are known. Why are there 2 different reports? Which is right? And if the Red book is right, why would the Black book say there is 2 specimens? Please Help..Thanks.
There were 50 struck. There has never been a report of someone actually finding them in a collection. The Black book speculates that 2 may have been seen (like the Loch Ness monster).
Richard P. writes: I have a 1974 one dollar bill that is blank on the back. Its serial number is L47772458G. I understand that blank backs are rarer than blank fronts and that the occurrence of the misprints is key to determining its value. Is this particular date/series worth anything substantial?
Blank backs, that is, notes missing the first printing are scarce. It can happen when two sheets are stuck together and pass through the press at the same time, a sheet could be folded over before it is printed, there was no ink on the plate or the sheets missed the printing completely because the sheet(s) was accidentally stacked in drying room instead of being printed. Value depends on grade (condition). Approximate range: $35 -$200.
John K. writes: Hey doc, My girlfriend has a coin minted in 1994 that says “women in military service memorial.” It has busts of 5 women and all the names of the services around the edge on the front. On the back it has a pic of some memorial building and it says one dollar on it. She recieved it from her grandfather who has passed on. Can you help me out with any info on it and it’s current market price? thanks.
The 1994 Women Veterans Silver Dollar is an official United States commemorative coin struck by the Philadelphia Mint. There are two types: Mint State and Proof (“S” mint mark). The value quote assumes that the coin is still in the original box and casing and contains the certificate that accompanied the coin from the U.S. Mint. Approximate value, Mint State or Proof: $30-$35.
Bess B. writes: My father-in-law found an 1864 two cent piece in an old house in Ellicott City, MD. We would like to know how to tell the difference between the large and small motto since they look so similar. The coin looks in good condition but a little dirty. What do you recommend that we clean it with? Sincerely, Bess
Below are the design differences between 1864 2c, small and large motto varieties:
Small motto: The first “T” in trust is virtually up against the ribbon crease.
Large motto: There is a 1 mm gap on the large motto variety.
Small motto: The letters in the word “WE” are close together
Large motto: The letters in the word “WE” are widely separated.
Small motto: Stem to the leaf is plainly visible
Large motto: No stem
Cleaning the coin will destroy most of the coin’s value.
Value range: Small motto $30 – $500 (G4 – MS60), Large Motto: $5 – $65 (G4 – MS60).
L.S. writes: I need some advice or assistance. I had a MS+++/proof 1867 shield nickel, (no rays). I turned it over to a local coin dealer to have it sent in for grading. I live in Mitchell South Dakota. He suggested that he do me a favor by sending it in for grading. I trusted him. I went away on vacation for two and a half months.
When I came back he gave me back a very bad xf nickel with corrosion and serious dings. Mine was beautiful, gold toned, with full luster and not even the tiniest bag mark. We both looked it over with a ten power when I handed it over. He remarked on the toning and the fact of no marks what-so-ever. Yet he told the police that I had given him a low quality coin.
How can I find out if this coin has been put on the market? I just want to know if you know of anybody that has sold or bought such a coin recently. Or how I can get more information. I gave him the coin in early April. Are there any lists or means of looking. I have been collecting for over 40 years and have never seen a better condition circulation coin. I bought it from a dealer in Germany about ten years ago.
I would appreciate any assistance or advice that you can give me. The police have told me that it is his word against mine. However, the dealer told the police that I gave him a low grade coin. So if I can trace a high grade shield nickel back to this guy I would have him cold. Please help me police our hobby.
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Proof is not a grade but a method of manufacturing a special coin for collectors or presentation. This is quite a bit different that an MS (Mint State) coin that was minted for use in commerce. Only 600 1867 “No Rays” Shield nickel proofs were struck but 28,890,500 business strikes were minted.
The dealer’s argument will be that if you are confused over the type and grade of the coin that you have then you can’t take the dealer to task. If you are not experienced enough to have known whether your coin is proof or mint state then the dealer can make the argument that you certainly can’t tell the difference between circulated and mint state grades.
I have no doubt that the dealer has been dishonest but you will have to have some evidence of the condition of the coin that you submitted. Do you have a receipt with a description from the purchase of the nickel? Even if you don’t, here are some things to try:
Sorry you had a problem. Collecting coins is suppose to be fun and sometimes even profitable.
Sue F. writes: I have a medal that has George Washington on the front and it says “THE CONSTITUTION IS SACREDLY OBLIGATORY ON ALL” On the back it says: U.S. MINT OATH OF ALLEGIANCE TAKEN BY THE OFFICERS AND WORKMEN SEPT. 9 1861 JAS. POLLOCK DIR. It’s around the size of a quarter. Is this a rare medal, how many were made and what approximately is it’s value? I’d appreciate any information you have.
This medal took advantage of the extreme popularity of Washington medals during the first months of the Civil War. This medal and another, with a special reverse with only a plain wreath enclosing an open space, were sold to the public until 1865. The latter were used as marksmanship prizes by the Philadelphia Rifle Club.
The medal is 31mm in diameter and they were struck in gold, silver, copper and aluminum. Anthony C. Paquet was the designer.
In 1861 only one gold example were made, 51 silver and 250 copper. An aluminum piece (alumininum was considered a precious metal in this era) may be unique. Only the copper pieces are generally available in the market and exist in much larger numbers than indicated by the initial minting. Approximate Value Range: $50 – $75+.