VAN D. writes:Â What would a $20.00 US bill that has been printed with the back on both sides with the front on top of one of the backs and the number 20 backwards on the bill be worth? The series is a 1990. It appears that that ink on the back had gone through to the front, making the bill have both sides on one side.
Your $20 note is an “offset” printing error or offset transfer, meaning that the rollers that pull the currency sheets through the press accidentally received an impression from the printing plates, because no paper was in the press. The rollers then applied the impression to the next sheet that came through, creating, what looks like notes with both images printed on one side. Because the inked roller has positive image the offset will be negative, that is backwards. If you look at the second impression you will see that all elements are reversed.This extra impression will continue until the bed is cleaned of all ink.
These error currrency notes are popularly collected and are judged by the darkness of the offset. As more sheets go through the press the offset becomes lighter and lighter. Condition also plays and important part as uncirculated examples are more in demand. Approximate value range: $80-$150.
Paul N. writes:Â I (own) several re-strike coins, one of which is a 1783 constellatio nova 1000 usa. Is this worth anything to anyone. I read in a 1993 edition of coins & prices that the real coin is unique and was valued in Garrett’s collection @ $190,000, the only one known. I have a couple other similar coins. Are re-strikes worth anything?
Historical content, rarity and condition are what makes coins valuable. If you attend a coin auction you can literally feel the excitement when the participants bid against one another. If the item is merely a copy, then the historical perspective is gone (it wasn’t there) and along with it, the value.
Copies of coins can be valuable as an inexpensive way of showing collectors coins that they may never be in a position to own. The Hobby Protection Act in the United States, requires that copies, or museum replicas state be stamped with the words copy or replica.
“Restrikes” suggest that a coin was struck with the original dies at some time later than the date on the coin. Some of these can be historic and also have value. There have been proofs and regular issue coins restruck in the U.S. for various reasons, such as for presentation purposes. Some are quite valuable because the restrike is surrounded by another historical event.
Stanley S. writes:Â My friend has a 1991 Jefferson nickel that has Jefferson’s head on both sides of the coin. We would like to know whether it is good or was it tampered with?Â
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Jack H. writes:Â I recently found a nickel in some change that I had gotten from somewhere and this nickel has heads on both sides. I looked it over and I can’t find anything on it to indicate that it is not real,it has the mint mark and the “IN GOD WE TRUST ” on both sides. Can you give me some help on finding out if it is real and what its value may be? I also have a penny with a blank front and a clearly stamped back?
This question is very common. It seems like a lot of budding magicians accidentally spent their “magic” coins. These double sided coins are manufactured by machining two coins and fitting them together. Look at the inside edge of the coin to find the seam. These coins can be purchased at any magic shop.
Can a coin with the same design on both sides be done that way on purpose or accident at the Mints? No. The obverse and reverse dies are not interchangeable. They have different configurations so that they fit on the minting machines properly.
Jack’s penny with the blank side is probably a result of two blanks sticking together on the coin press. Somewhere out there is a cent with the missing side that belongs to your penny. Value? Between $10-$20.
Barb writes:Â I was wondering if anyone could help me in pricing a Pewter or silver Continental curency (sic) from 1776? How can I tell it it’s real or not and what may it be worth?
I assumed you spelled the word “curency” with one “r” to show me which type you have. All are valuable. The single “r” coins come in Pewter, brass and Silver with the latter extremely valuable (one in the 1980 Garrett Sale brought around $95,000). There are struck copies that were made as souvenirs for the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. Other copies exist including some promotional pieces struck as recently as 1961. The U.S. Congress passed a law, years ago, requiring the word “copy” or “replica” on coin reproductions. The lack of these words doesn’t guaranty its authenticity. I suggest sending the coin to PCGS or NGC Â for evaluation.
Emma K. writes:Â How are cupronickel coins made?
I assume you are asking about “clad” coinage and not the usual alloy of copper and nickel that is common in many world coins as well as the United States nickel. The clad metal strip used for blanks on U.S. coinage, 10c and higher, is fabricated by bonding both sides of a central core to thinner layers. So a clad blank contains nickel bonded to a central core of pure copper.
Scott K. writes:Â Having had bought several grading service encapsulated coins through the mail, this thought occurred to me: Have there ever been problems with tampering? (Opening up the capsules and placing lower grade coins in)? Yet another way for the crooks in the coin trade to rip off unsuspecting collectors?
Though there is great deal of controversy about coin grading, at least the holders are sonically sealed. That means that the holder becomes one piece of plastic. The grading services use this secure method of packaging graded coins as they are on the hook if the coin is obviously misgraded. Though I’ve opened many holders myself using a hammer and small anvil, the holder is rendered unusable. The grading services have a machine that opens the holders, it also renders the holder unusable and if the coin is reencapsulated it is placed in a new holder. I would think that your worries are unfounded.
Mike writes:Â I have a $10 Gold Certificate that was issued in 1922. It is in fair condition. Could you tell me approximately what this is worth and some info on gold certificates?
I’m not sure what grade you are referring to when you say “fair condition”. Generally that means a note in the lowest possible grade, worst than a rag. I’m going to assume that the note is average circulated between Fine and Very Fine.
Every kind of paper money has an “obligation” that shows how that paper could be redeemed. Paper money was either a receipt for specie, gold or silver, or a loan to the issuer (Treasury notes, Legal Tender issues).
There were nine issues of large size gold certificates and one short issue of the small size (1928). Your note comes from the ninth issue beginning in 1913 with a $50 note and continuing in 1922, $10 to $1000 note. Its convertibility into gold ended with the Gold Reserve Act of 1933 and its legal standing as a collectible wasn’t clearly resolved until 1964.
Gold Certificates are always scarce in high grade and especially in the higher denominations. After the recall date in 1933 the notes were illegal to own. Though a good number survived, preserved by collectors or by accident, few were saved by the usual souvenir hoarder that puts away old issues of money for nostalgic reasons.
The 1922 Gold Certificate comes with both small and large serial numbers, both with the Speelman-White signature combination and the portrait of Michael Hillegas (First Treasurer of the United States along with co-Treasurer George Clymer). Though this is column is not a price guide, I can say that average circulated specimens of this note go for $100-$150. The serial number size only matters, as far as value, in higher grades.
JL H. writes:Â About 20 years ago, my grandmother was given a 1973, Denver minted, silver penny (by mistake for a dime) while working as a sales associate. Thinking it was quite unique, she kept it in a box for many years. In 1981, she found and article in “American Collector” magazine that read as follows:
‘For Sale: One 1973 silver penny valued at $35,000. Only 13 silver pennies were made…”
My Grandmother has since given me the penny to secure its worth in the rare coin market as of today. What I’d like to find out is, how much would one of these pennies we worth today? I’d appreciate any information you could give. Thank you for your time.
Fascinating story but there never were any U.S. cents minted on silver flans. The usual material was copper or an alloy mixed with zinc and tin. In 1973 there weren’t any regular issue coins minted in silver. Dimes, quarters and half dollars ceased being minted from 90% silver alloy at the end of 1964. As the U.S. government hates creating rarities, if such a coin was surreptitiously made, it would be confiscated as soon as it was offered for sale. Officially, there are no records reflecting the minting of such a coin.
You might have a cent struck on a clad, copper-nickel dime planchet. This would be the same size, weight (2.27 grams) and color as a dime but look like an Lincoln cent. As the cent is larger than a dime, the outer part of the design would be missing. Wrong metal error, cent on clad dime blank, would bring close to $100 in the collector market.
There are some other cents that look “silver” but were made in other metals. Some examples are the 1943 cent minted from steel (common), a 1944 steel cent minted in error (rare) and a 1974 pattern cent minted in aluminum (very rare…only a few samples made).
I’ve also seen silver plated cents, but these were done outside the Mint for an unknown purpose, possibly for some promotion but these have no value. If the “silver” cent weighs 3.11 grams it’s a copper cent.