Dave H. writes:Â I have a 1945 nickel with an “s” on the back. What is this worth?
In 1942 the U.S. government feared a shortage of copper for the war effort. Congress decided to change the alloy in the nickel from 75% copper and 25% nickel to an alloy of 56% copper, 35% silver and 9% manganese. To signify the change in alloy a large mint mark was placed above Monticello on the reverse of the coin (S=San Francisco Mint, D=Denver Mint, P=Philadelphia Mint). Even the Philadelphia mint which was usually not represented by a mint mark, was represented by a large “P”. The use of the war-time alloy continued through 1945 when the original alloy was reinstated.
Note that in 1943 the cent lost its copper and was replaced by zinc coated steel. It is not widely known, but in the last years of WW II, whole companies of troops would “police” the battlefields and pick up the brass remaining from cartridges and shells. From 1944 to 1946 one cent coins were made from these cartridge casings.
The value of war time nickels depends on condition but even circulated or damaged pieces are worth more than face value. The coins contain .05626 troy oz. of pure silver.
Jeff G. writes:Â I have a U.S. note dated 1862, and entitled along the top as a “Treasury Warrant”; is is a five dollar note apparently given ” for Military Service.” I have been unable to find any information so far about “Treasury Warrants” and ‘am wondering if you have any information or can point me in the right direction. Thanks.
There are no United States “Treasury Warrants” from 1862. The United States issued Treasury Notes periodically from 1812-1860. Generally, Treasury notes or warrants are interest bearing currency and a form of emergency money.
I think you are talking about Civil War, State issued notes. For example there is an 1862 $5 Arkansas Treasury Warrant (Black. Black person carrying cotton at l. Governor H.M. Rector at top center, dog at bottom center). Texas has an 1862 $5 Treasury Warrant also (black on green underprinting, Washington at left). It is true that troops were probably paid in warrants instead of specie (gold and silver) but civil obligations were paid with these notes too. The promise was that when things returned to normal, one would be able to trade the notes in for specie with interest.
You might consult the book Confederate and Southern States Currency Vol 1 4th Edition by Grover C. Criswell, Jr., 1992 BNR Press, 132 East Second Street, Port Clinton, Ohio 43452-115. There is a new edition but it only contains the Confederate Federal currency.
Marcey B. writes:Â I have recently been given an 1858-O Seated Liberty half dollar (no logo). It is in pretty good condition, but here’s the catch. The lady who gave this to my grandma had it made into a pin sometime in the late 1800’s to early 1900’s. There are two soldered points on the obverse side. Can these points be removed? Is this coin worth anything, or is it now just an interesting piece of jewelry? Please respond. Thanks.
Enjoy it as jewelry! Even though the solder could be removed by an expert in coin restoration, the work would cost more than the coin is worth (about $30-$40 in average circulated, undamaged condition). The 1858-O has a high mintage (more than seven million were minted).
Ed D. writes:Â I have what looks like a copper US quarter dated 1977. I’m trying to find a value for this coin. Thanks.
Quarters are made from a sandwich of an outer layer of copper-nickel bonded to an inner core of pure copper. Sometimes the sheets of metal are partially missing the bonded layer leaving a pure copper flan. This defect could be caused by gas or dirt coming between the layers of metal when it was rolled out. It is unusual to find a struck quarter with none of the copper nickel present. It could also be a quarter struck on a cent blank, but it would be very thin and the design would be incomplete. I would guesstimate that a quarter struck on a cent blank would bring $60-$100. A quarter struck on a defective quarter flan (pure copper) would bring about $25.
Scott V. writes:Â I’ve recently purchased some commemorative certified coins from various sources over the net. In a few cases, I’ve seen MS65-66 coins that are almost black with tarnish or that have various unattractive tonings. Does eye appeal not have importance for the grading services? Also, are they as impartial in their grading as is assumed? Thanks.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder but grading is a qualitative call. Don’t buy the coin, no matter what the grade, if YOU don’t find it pleasing. I personally don’t like black coins because they don’t reflect light making it difficult to see the surface and luster. However, most coins will have some oxide coating and therefore some patina. Blazing white 19th century coins are suspect as they were probably dipped in antioxidant. Though some collectors want their coins to be untoned, dipping them will eventually ruin them. The grading services generally do a decent job considering that grading is such a subjective art. I still want to evaluate the coin myself. I guess I’m picky!
Sofia del C. writes:Â Is there a year when the US penny was not coined, during the 1900’s?
The U.S. cent has been struck every year since 1793 with only one exception. An acute shortage of copper, due to the turmoil of the war of 1812, precluded making one cent coins in 1815. In the 20th century not all Mints are represented but there is a cent for every year.
Barbara S. writes:Â I recently received some coins my grandfather collected during WWII. I was wondering if there is anywhere a price guide I could look at on the web or if you suggest going to a dealer to have them appraised. Thanks.
Generally the lots I see inherited from veterans of WWII are mostly souvenirs. Though they often contain mixes of silver and base metal coins, they are usually the most common examples of what was money at the time and place. If your grandfather was a numismatic collector he would have been discerning about his choices. Here’s how you can tell:
– If the coins are organized and are stored in individual holders, I would say that he had some numismatic skills and the collection should be appraised by a professional numismatist.
– If the coins are simply thrown in boxes, loose, I would say that these coins are just an accumulation.
You can have some fun by looking them up in The Standard Catalog of World Coins by Chester L. Krause and Clifford Mishler. Colin R. Bruce II, Editor. The latest editions are divided by century. You’ll want the 20th century guide. Good Hunting!
Scott V. writes:Â I keep seeing references to a coin’s PQ. What does it mean? Thanks
The term PQ stands for premium quality which would seem to belie the whole concept of a standardized grading system. It’s a confusing term because it makes it seem that a coin described this manner is really a higher grade than it is and therefore more valuable. It is just marketing hype. A coin graded MS66 is already premium quality by definition. MS66PQ? I don’t think so!