Jason P. writes: I have some very old coins that I found and I don’t know very much about them. One of them reads “Continental Curency” and is dated 1776. It then has a circle with the word “Fugio.” Inside the the circle is a sun shining onto something. Underneath that it appears to “mind your business”. On the reverse side there are thirteen circles linked together and inside a inner circle it says “We are one.” Anything you can tell me about this coin is greatly appreciated.
This coin is best described as a proposal or pattern for a future U.S. dollar. All examples are dated 1776. The obverse shows a sundial and the word Fugio, intending to refer to the expression “time flies”; the reverse was suggested by Benjamin Franklin and shows a link design with the names of the thirteen original colonies. There is evidence that that some of these patterns actually circulated. The obverse shows EG FECIT (EG made this); the EG traditionally is associated with the engraver Elisha Gallaudet. They were minted in silver, pewter and brass with more than one spelling of the word “Currency”.
There are four spelling types in Pewter:
Original Continental Dollars are very rare and can bring thousands of dollars at auction or private sale. Note that copies were struck in several different metals as souvenirs of the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia in 1876 as well as from restrikes from copied dies in 1961. I’ve also seen museum copies but they usually are labeled “copy” or “replica” as required by current law. I suggest you show your coin to a trained numismatist or contact PCGS or NGC to use their authentication service.
Todd M. writes: I have an MS-60 1900 Gold $5 coin and I have a new 1998 $50 Gold Eagle. My question is this: How come my 1900 $5 gold piece is dull? How come it doesn’t shine like the new gold coin? Gold doesn’t react to tarnish! My 1900 piece looks almost orange! Any explanation? Thanks, Todd
The Gold eagle alloy is 91.67% gold, 3% silver and 5.33% copper giving this coin almost a white-gold appearance. The 1900 Liberty half eagle is 90% gold and 10% copper giving this coin an red orange-gold appearance. Pure gold is too soft to be used in pure form but adding a small amount of other metal such as copper, increases the hardness tremendously (That is why gold crowns on teeth can withstand chewing). As you can see, the shade of color of gold coins depends on the alloy used.
The “luster factor” is dependent on how much pressure is applied to the flan (blank) when it is struck by the dies in a coin press. The harder the pressure the more the metal will flow creating the microscopic, radial lines that are responsible for mint luster. Softly struck coins exhibit soft mint luster and may have weaknesses in the design. Excessive pressure will create a coin with lots of luster and a sharp impression but will reduce the life of the die. Another killer of mint luster is cleaning. Even a small amount of cleaning can remove some of the flow lines, making a coin look dull.
Greg writes:Â I’m looking for a code system that is unique to every coin: year, mint, variety for a database that I’m creating for my collection. Even non-rare current issues. I would also like to know if there are any databases that I can incorporate into my own database. Thanks
The PCGS numbering system is a well thought out system for all U.S. coins and World Coins, at least the ones they currently grade. It would be nice to get their database on a disk or CD and be able to incorporate it as a look-up table in a database. So far they have expressed no interest in sharing or selling the system. You can use it yourself in your own dB but you have to key the data in yourself. You can get the system simply by buying a copy of the PCGS Population Report.
It is possible to create a query that updates a look-up table so that the data and the translation can be used if you again have the same coin in the same grade. Another idea. The real value in being able to identify specific coins is so they can be sorted for reports and lists. Try coming up with 3 letter codes, a la the Old New England Rare Coin system, to identify types; use a look-up table for grades so they are consistent. Some examples: GSG -Gold St. Guadens $20, MG$ Morgan Dollar, PC$ Peace Dollar etc.
Bob & Jeanine R. ask: Could you give me any information about this penny with the word “IN” missing in the motto? I would appreciate any help with this as I am a very novice coin collector with much to learn. Thank You!
There are two basic classes of coin errors: Die errors and Mechanical errors: Die Errors are duplicated on every coin that is struck from that die. A good example is the 1955 Doubled Die cent, caused by a hub rotation when an additional impression of the master hub turned slightly when it was applied.
All coins coming from die errors are identical. Only wear or damage to the die changes the resulting coins. The 1937D 3-legged Buffalo nickel or the 1922 plain cent are good examples.
Mechanical errors include clipped planchets, multiple strikings, blank planchets, off centers, broadstrikes (coins struck outside of the retaining collar), brockage (caused by a coin sticking to the die and striking subsequent blanks with the stuck coin), coins struck on the wrong planchet (for example, a quarter struck on a dime blank) and filled die errors.
The filled die error is a good place to start. Dies are a negative image in relief. When a blank is struck with the obverse and reverse die the metal flows in to the recesses of the die and creates the image on the blank. If dirt or debris fill the recesses the image will not be imparted onto the die.
On your coin you can see a filled die problem on the “9” in the date. I’m not sure about the missing “IN” being a filled die error. I’d need a higher resolution image to see, but because there is no trace at all of the word “IN” there is a good chance that it was removed from the coin with a small tool called a graver. By “chasing” (moving metal) around the altered area it looks as if it was never there.
Charles B. writes: I was going through some coins last night and found a wheat penny that appears to have been double struck. On the front the words ONE CENT are parallel to Lincoln’s face and are printed backwards. Below that on his bust are the words United States of America, not all letters are clear but you can see what it says. On the back you can see part of the date and the lower part of Lincoln’s coat. It was offset when it was struck because there is a deep groove around the coin. You can not make out the date because of the groove and the feather is imprinted on the date on front. I would like to know what kind of value this might have. Thanks for your help.
There are two ways this can happen to coins:
1. Brockage – which is a mirror image of one side of the design impressed on the other. This can happen if a coin remains on either the obverse or reverse die after striking. The next blank receives the image from the coin, not the die. If the stuck coin is only partially covering the die then the next blank receives only part of the mirrored impression. Full brockage examples are more desirable to collectors of error coins. Values for copper Lincolns, approximately: US$15.
2. Two coins and a block of wood – this is obviously a “put up job” and is shunned by collectors. Check for damage to the rim or unevenness in the flan. Carefully done brockage fakes will fool all but specialists in this area.
Michael B. writes: I have found an old Ford collectors token/coin. The front displays the old Ford grills with the word Ford written across and on the left the date 1903 and on the right the date 1933. The back has the phrase in a circle 30 years of progress and a big interlocked V8 emblem, and is a bronze gold color. What is it and does it have any value??? Any help greatly appreciated. Thank you. Michael
You have a “Ford Dollar” issued in conjunction with the World’s Fair “Century of Progress Exposition” 1933-1934 in Chicago.  (1903-1933 – Thirty Years of Progress). The fair was a successful effort to show that the city of Chicago was a center for science, engineering and technology. The medal is a nice piece of Americana and is very collectible.
More than 39 million people visited this famous fair. Almost all the states and territories participated and included a U.S. Mint Exhibit and a Federal Building that was constructed on the site by act of Congress.
There are several medals that were issued for the fair including an Official medal. Your piece shows the front of a radiator from a 1933 Ford; the words FORD, in script, appear across it. On the left and right is the date “1933”. The reverse shows a monogram of “V-8” inside of an open wreath. Above the wreath is “THIRTY YEARS”, below is OF PROGRESS.
This medal is popular among collectors of both exposition and automobile memorabilia. It also has an historical connection to this important fair and is quite rare now. Value: $75+ with no damage but a bit of wear. Examples in Mint State: about $150+.
Kathy M. asks: I have a patron wondering “why the Krugerrand costs more than ‘normal’ gold pieces. I have not found this to be true when I research, but is there any reason why he would think this?
I’m not sure what you mean by “normal” but most coins have some buyer’s premium in relation to the metal content. Most bullion coins, which are coins whose chief value lies in their gold content, trade from 3% to as much as 20% over the world price of gold. This premium reflects the cost of minting, distribution and profit to the dealer. Generally, the smaller the gold unit the higher the percentage premium. This is based on the fact that the cost of minting a 1/10th ounce coin is about the same as minting a one ounce coin.
There often is some differential in the premiums when a particular coin is in much higher demand than its competitors. For instance, the U.S. Gold Eagle series, due to its huge popularity (particularly among Americans), currently has higher premiums than its counterparts in the Krugerrand or Canadian Maple Leaf series.
Also, remember that the price of gold is an indicator of the current market for 100 troy ounce contracts, not the price of a single Krugerrand. Note that under most circumstances, some of the premium is returned when you sell the coin back to the dealer.
Ray N. writes: I have some silver coins that have been water damaged in a flooded basement. Is there a safe cleaning method that will restore the luster of the coins or am I out of luck?
Luster is the term that numismatists use to describe the effect that light has on a coin when it is tilted or turned in light. It is created by the many radial lines that flow outward from the coin when the planchette is struck simultaneously by the obverse and reverse dies. Chemical cleaners remove metal as well as oxidation from coins and therefore remove some of the flow lines. Once the oxide is removed from the coin’s surface the coin will oxidize even more quickly requiring repeated cleanings. A few “dips” in a product like Jewel Luster over a period of months are enough to turn an uncirculated coin into an AU or lower grade coin.
If the coins are of considerable value, you might explore using the professional conservation services offered by NGCÂ or enlisting other expert assistance. In any case, I would strongly advise against cleaning them on your own.